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10 September 2012 @ 11:53 pm
Nightcap Analysis  
So I've been sort of working on an analysis of nightcaps similar to the notes I posted on jackets after the Jacket Tour. Since the focus of the tour was on jackets, any nightcaps seen were bonus, but we saw lots of nightcaps. I've tried to include links whenever possible. You might also want to check out Karen's links: http://www.larsdatter.com/nightcaps.htm



Museum: Museum of Fine Arts Boston
Accession #: 43.250
Date: 1575-1625
Description: polychrome nightcap with carnations, borages, roses, pansies, and cornflowers, same pattern on all four lobes with alternating top flower of cornflowers and carnations, colors on top cornflowers changed.
Material: linen
Threads: silk and gilt, silver threads, black silk threads massively deteriorated
Stitches: detached buttonhole, ceylon, plaited braid, spider, chain, stem
Seams: Plaited Braid stitch in gold thread
Oes: teardrop spangles from lace edging, no oes on embroidery
Lace edging: yes, metal bobbin lace
Lining: cap is lined in four panels of cream silk, small stitches attach it delicately to brim- could be original, brim is unlined
Visible drawing: yes, where black silk is gone
Observed: in person
Link: http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/man-s-cap-116883

Museum: Museum of Fine Arts Boston
Accession #: 43.251
Date: 16th century
Description: Black and gold embroidered floral design, black stitching on top is worn, many fine goldwork stitches. Honeysuckle, carnations, cornflowers, strawberry flowers, grapes, etc. No embroidery on seams.
Material: linen
Threads: black silk and gilt-silver thread
Stitches: stem, speckle, goldwork
Seams: no embroidery hiding top seams
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: gray silk lining in brim, gold and cream silk lining in cap in six panels
Visible drawing:
Observed: in person
Link: http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/man-s-cap-116887

Museum: Museum of London
Accession #: A7595
Date: 1600-1620
Description: black outlined holly leaves with berries, linen is stained brown
Material: linen
Threads: black silk, gilt threads
Stitches: black outline in reverse chain stitch, plaited braid stitch, spider, detached buttonhole
Seams: not embroidered over
Oes: teardrop spangles on lace edging
Lace edging: yes, metal bobbin lace
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: no
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Museum of London
Accession #: 42.51
Date: 1600-1620
Description: scrolling floral design worked entirely in silver and gold threads, pansy, thistle, dragonfly and bird, design identical on all four panels.
Material: linen
Threads: gilt-silver and silver threads
Stitches: goldwork stitches, reverse chain, detached buttonhole, ceylon, spider
Seams: embroidered over in chain stitch in gold
Oes: oes in embroidery and teardrop spangles on lace edge
Lace edging: yes, gold bobbin lace edging
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: no
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Museum of London
Accession #: 27.117
Date: 1600-1620
Description: Satin stitched carnation and roses with gold knot lattice, stained linen ground
Material: linen
Threads: colored flat silks, gilt and silver threads
Stitches: satin stitched flowers, plaited braid lattice, spider
Seams: green silk stem stitch embroidery hiding seams
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: yes
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Museum of London
Accession #: ?
Date:?
Description: black and gold acorn and oak leaf cap
Material: linen
Threads: black silk and gilt threads
Stitches: satin, chain, stem, and double running stitches in black, detached buttonhole and maybe double running in gilt
Seams: each panel is edged in black chain stitch giving the illusion of satin stitched seams
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: yes
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Museum of London
Accession #: ?
Date: ?
Description: Black silk and gilt scrolling floral design with daffodils at the peak, black silk is mostly deteriorated away
Material: linen
Threads: black silk and gilt threads
Stitches: plaited braid, chain, detached buttonhole, and spider in gilt, unknown in black. (possibly double running stitch geometric fill in missing portions)
Seams: plaited braid stitch in gilt embroidered over seams
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: yes
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Victoria and Albert Museum
Accession #: 2016.1899
Date: 1600-1625
Description: Roses, strawberries, pansies, and gold, identical panels, very dense design with spangles
Material: linen
Threads: silk, silver, and gilt-silver threads
Stitches: chain, ceylon, detached buttonhole, plaited braid, stem, ?
Seams: no embroidery over seams
Oes: yes, densely packed
Lace edging: yes, gilt bobbin lace
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: yes
Observed: through glass case and online
Link: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O15344/nightcap-unknown/   

Museum: V&A
Accession #: 198-1900
Date: 1600-1625
Description: hexagon lattice in black and gold with floral motifs
Material: linen, aged brown
Threads: black silk and gilt-silver threads
Stitches: stem, spider, plaited braid, ceylon, unknown
Seams: no embroidery over seams
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: ?
Observed: online
Link: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O72529/nightcap-unknown/   

Museum: V&A
Accession #: T.258.1926
Date: 1600-1624
Description: polychrome and silver, red, blue, yellow, and green, grapes and roses with pansy at peak
Material: linen
Threads: colored silks, silver and gilt threads
Stitches: chain, detached buttonhole, ceylon, spider, plaited braid?, unknown
Seams:  embroidered over, possibly in chain stitch in silver thread
Oes: on leaves
Lace edging: yes
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: ?
Observed: online
Link: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73335/nightcap-unknown/   

Museum: V&A
Accession #: T.9-1950
Date: 1600
Description: unassembled black silk embroidered nightcap
Material: linen
Threads: black silk
Stitches: stem, speckle
Seams:  not assembled
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: no
Visible drawing: none
Observed: in person
Link: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O319540/nightcap-panel/   

Museum: V&A
Accession #: T.75-1954
Date: 1600-1625
Description: gold and silver coiled floral design; roses, carnation, pansy, borage
Material: linen
Threads: gilt and silver threads
Stitches: chain, plaited braid, detached buttonhole,
Seams: covered in gold embroidery, plaited braid
Oes: teardrop spangles on lace, no oes on embroidery
Lace edging: yes, gold and silver bobbin lace
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: ?
Observed: online
Link: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O357046/cap-headgear-unknown/   

Museum: Costume Museum of Bath   
Accession #:
Date: Description: polychrome and gilt with roses, borage, pansies, and carnations
Material: linen
Threads: silk and gilt
Stitches: detached buttonhole, plaited braid, spider, ceylon,
Seams:  finished edges of panels in gold, but seams are not over embroidered
Oes: no
Lace edging: no
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: no
Observed: through glass case
Link: N/A

Museum: Costume Museum of Bath
Accession #:
Date:
Description: polychrome cap with grapes, roses, pansies, etc.
Material: linen
Threads: silk and gilt
Stitches: chain, stem, detached buttonhole, trellis, spider, needlelace, wrapped ceylon?
Seams: plaited braid over seams, edge of brim not closed
Oes: yes
Lace edging: no
Lining: yes, on brim, but not in cap
Visible drawing:
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: Newstead Abbey/Nottignham
Accession #:
Date:
Description: polychrome with strawberries at peak, grapes, roses, borage, columbine, daffodil, thistle, pink, pansy
Material: linen, yellowed
Threads: silk and gilt
Stitches: detached buttonhole, chain, double chain, trellis, plaited braid, spider
Seams: finished edges of panels in gold chain, but seams are not over embroidered
Oes: teardrop spangles on lace edge, no oes on embroidery
Lace edging: yes, gilt bobbin lace
Lining: yes, pink silk lining in cap, no lining for brim
Visible drawing: no
Observed: in person
Link: N/A

Museum: The Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall
Accession #: 1971.50
Date: 1600-1625
Description: acorns, oak leaves, and obelisk topped gryphons
Material: linen
Threads: pink and green silk, gilt and silver threads
Stitches: reverse chain, couched, plaited braid, detached buttonhole
Seams: embroidered over with plaited braid stitch
Oes: teardrop spangles on lace edge, no oes on embroidery
Lace edging: yes, gilt and silver bobbin lace
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: no
Observed: in person
Link: http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/display.php?EMUSESSID=1c9e661b1dc802d5df301b1cb76a5284&irn=7423

Museum: The Gallery of Costume, Platt Hall
Accession #: 1972.113
Date: 1600-1625
Description: silver scalloped coils and intertwined lattice
Material: linen
Threads: black silk and silver threads
Stitches: chain stitch, background fill in black silk chevron pattern
Seams: embroidered over in chain stitch
Oes: teardrop spangles on lace edge
Lace edging: yes, silver bobbin lace
Lining: ?
Visible drawing: no
Observed: in person
Link: http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/display.php?EMUSESSID=1c9e661b1dc802d5df301b1cb76a5284&irn=7435



 
 
Mood: accomplishedaccomplished
 
 
( 1 comment — Comment )
grnvixen: Stitchinggrnvixen on September 11th, 2012 01:54 pm (UTC)
Thank you so much for posting these!!! I'm salivating over the ones not online :).

I have a notebook of nightcap research. May I print this out to include there?
( 1 comment — Comment )